A Solo Traveler’s Guide to Sao Paulo, Brazil

Sao Paulo, Brazil, is the most populous city in the largest country in South America. In fact, Brazil’s economic capital sprawls more than 576 square miles — 90% larger than my hometown of Boston.

But despite Sao Paulo’s booming size, I felt right at home on a recent solo trip that brought me on a direct flight to this cultural capital and a sparkling new hotel overlooking Ponte Estaiada.

Here’s everything to know about traveling solo to Sao Paulo, including where to eat, sleep and play.

Where to Stay

Tell almost anyone you’re traveling to Brazil alone, and their first words are likely to be “safe travels,” and not “have a great time.” But in my solo travel era, I never felt anything but secure at the new JW Marriott Hotel Sao Paulo. In fact, despite many hotel options closer to the stadium where Taylor Swift put on three sold-out Eras Tour shows (with another trio in Rio), she and her security team opted for the serene sanctuary of the top suites here.

It’s easy to see why. The hotel is just outside the epicenter of Sao Paulo’s hustle and bustle, meaning there are gorgeous skyline and bridge views from most of the 258 quiet, modern rooms. The lobby offers up just a glimpse of what awaits on the other 14 stories — notably, sleek, dark stylings and local flora galore. The terrace at the entrance is an entrance into the big-city escape, with a garden featuring loads of fresh herbs with a fragrance that’s just as much an olfactory greeting as a welcome pop of green amidst a metropolis. They’re used by the culinary and mixology teams at Neto — the delicious Italian-Brazilian fusion anchor restaurant — and lobby bar Caju (check out the pizzas or juicy steaks here). I enjoyed dinner and a show at Caju, with a nightly music lineup that included stellar live jazz.

What to Do

I kept my broader city explorations to the daytime in well-populated neighborhoods suggested by the gracious concierge staff, with just a small, sturdy-strapped crossbody bag in tow.

After a day in the hotel’s intimate indoor-outdoor swimming pool, I couldn’t resist more pampering with a manicure at the adjacent Parque da Cidade Mall. Most Brazilian women have impeccably groomed digits, and weekly beauty appointments cost just a bit more than a latte. I also took advantage of inexpensive tailoring here — common throughout Brazil — and had my new pants hemmed for $10 in one hour.

There are boutiques for Brazil’s most iconic — and colorful — fashion brand, Farm Rio, across Sao Paulo, but I opted for a few floors of fun at flagship boutique Farm Harmonia. The sundresses and blazers here set fashionistas back about $300 each in the U.S., but just about $75 with a favorable exchange rate where they’re designed and sewn.

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The boutique is adjacent to one of Sao Paulo’s must-visits: Batman Alley. The Bohemian neighborhood is a labyrinthine gallery, its wending streets constantly evolving thanks to ever-changing murals and artists painting en plein air. I bought a carry-on-friendly canvas with Amazonian birds before heading to Coffee Lab for a pick-me-up. The woman-owned cafe has frequently been named the city’s best, and it specializes not only in roasting Brazilian beans, but also in classes to educate guests about one of the country’s top exports.

Gold is another of those exports, and I learned more about Brazil’s complicated history with Portuguese explorers at Itau Cultural. Like this one, most cultural centers in Sao Paulo have free admission, with both permanent and rotating exhibits. Another must for art lovers is Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo, designed in the 1950s and ’60s by one of Brazil’s preeminent female architects, Lina Bo Bardi. Today, the brutalist-style building is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, just as remarkable as what’s on the inside. The unique way paintings and sculptures (including those by Edgar Degas) are displayed — primarily suspended and not wall-anchored — affords 360-degree views and avoids overcrowding.

There are several art, cultural and science museums at Ibirapuera — Sao Paulo’s version of Central Park — but on sunny days, it’s worth soaking up some rays on a stroll through its manicured paths. I grabbed a coconut water still in the shell and had a blast trying to spot the monkeys that often rustle through the trees looking for snacks.

What to Eat

I treated myself in the center of the park at Vista Restaurante, which is just as much a feast for the eyes as an epicurean’s dream.

There are spectacular views from every seat, with a 360-degree panorama of the city and bird’s-eye views of Ibirapuera. The menu here is all hyperlocal, with produce and proteins that pull from Brazil’s five diverse climates. Pumpkin lovers can rejoice in dishes such as roasted pumpkin rice with prawns that artfully unite the sweet with savory.

My other favorite meal in Sao Paulo was an epic brunch at Terraco Jardins (lauded as one of the city’s best several times over). The greenhouse-like setting brings the outside in, and each dish uses ingredients sourced from the state of Sao Paulo.

Getting There

Nonstop flights from the U.S. to Sao Paulo land at Guarulhos International Airport, which is about 90 minutes from the city, depending on traffic (usually heavy). From New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines and LATAM Airlines offer daily direct flights. From Boston Logan International Airport, LATAM Airlines offers direct flights five days per week; Delta offers seasonal direct flights three days per week.