First Time in Corsica? Here’s the Ultimate Coast to Coast Guide from a Guidebook Author

admin

7 days ago

First Time in Corsica? Here’s the Ultimate Coast to Coast Guide from a Guidebook Author

France’s Île de Beauté has cloud-piercing mountains, a wild, rambling coastline and miles of sun-kissed beaches ripe for exploring. Here are top tips for a first-time visit to Corsica – from a guidebook author.

“It’s not French, it’s Corsican” – you’ll be corrected by locals at every possible opportunity as you explore France’s southernmost region. Here on this mountainous Mediterranean island, a short ferry hop from the French Riviera, you’ll eat Corsican brocciu cheese paired with smoky charcuterie corse, sip Corsican wine or nutty Pietra beer, made with the island’s signature slow-roasted chestnuts, and find yourself wholly confused over the dual place names (signs and maps invariably use both French and native Corsican).

Having explored all corners of the island for the recently released Rough Guide to Corsica, I can understand why Corsicans feel so strongly about their homeland. Napoleon’s birthplace is ruggedly wild and idyllic in equal measures, and the natural scenery alone is well-deserving of its nickname, the Île de Beauté.

Table of Contents

Toggle

Secrets of Corsica

Don’t miss the next France Today Live online presentation! Zoe will be talking to us about the hidden spots to discover on the French Île de Beauté. Join us for a fascinating live chat and get the chance to ask your questions live. Taking place on October 9th, at 12:00 EST (16:00 GMT).

Road trips to remember

Although there are a few bus lines and a rambling mountain train (www.cf-corse.corsica), Corsica isn’t the easiest place to get around without your own wheels, so renting a vehicle or bringing your own is highly recommended.

With its corkscrew mountain roads and vertiginous sea cliffs, driving in Corsica isn’t for the faint-hearted, but if your nerves can handle it, the island boasts some of the most sensational drives in France. While researching the guidebook, I brought my car on the ferry from Toulon to Ajaccio with my boyfriend and dog in tow, and we drove from coast to coast several times during the weeks we spent on the island. One of our favourite drives was the D84 mountain road that curls down from Corte in the central mountains to Porto on the west coast. Slow down for the switchbacks along the Scala di Santa Regina (the staircase of Santa Regina) section, where jagged boulders overhang the road and gaping canyons plunge down into the valley below. Further west, you’ll drive beneath the chestnut trees of the Aïtone Forest and pass traditional villages on the route to the coast.

Another unmissable road trip is the famous coastal road that loops around the Cap Corse, the rocky peninsula that juts out from Bastia at the island’s northeastern tip. We hired a motorbike in Bastia (www.corse-moto-location.fr) to zoom along the coastal headlands, twisting and turning past plunging coastal cliffs, pebble and black sand beaches, and the ubiquitous Genoese towers that you’ll spot all around Corsica’s coastline (a hangover from the island’s rule by the Republic of Genoa during the 16th century). Not only are there options for boat cruises (www.sanpaulu.fr), coastal walks and wine tasting (www.palazzu-nicrosi.com) along the peninsula, but there are also plenty of great seafood restaurants – the ocean-view La Sassa (www.lasassa.com) in Nonza and the casual local eatery, Paillote les Tamaris (www.facebook.com/tamarisbarcaggio) at the Plage de Barcaggio were our top picks.

The 3.5-hour (approximately) route is doable on a day trip if you set out early, but coastal campsites and hotels dot the route, so stretching it out over a leisurely, long weekend is far more enjoyable.

Outdoor adventures

Corsica’s natural wonders are too impressive to simply drive past and there are endless opportunities for outdoor adventures around the island. The burly mountain ranges that dominate the central heartlands hide gurgling waterfalls and mountain lakes, where you can go wild swimming, along with spectacularly rugged walking trails, while the coast is an endless juxtaposition of soaring sea cliffs and pristine half-moon beaches.

If you don’t have the time, or the steely thighs, to attempt Corsica’s epic 180km GR-20, often touted as Europe’s most challenging long-distance footpath, or its bike-friendly counterpart, the GT20, there are scenic walks to suit all levels around the island. For an easily-accomplished morning walk, the footpath to the Campomoro Tower (www.campumoru-senetosa.corsica/en) gets our vote. It’s kid- and dog-friendly, and leads to one of the few Genoese Towers that you can still visit climb to the top for a sweeping sea view. Alternatively, for an achievable full-day hike, you can’t beat the stunning trail through the Restonica Gorge to the Melo and Capitello lakes.

Corsica’s towering cliffs are not just for hikers; the island is also fast gaining a reputation as one of France’s canyoning hotspots. Several companies (www.canyon-corse.com, www. corsica-forest.com and www.corsicanatura-activites.fr) offer canyoning excursions, but it’s best to choose based on your location, unless you’re a pro: the scenery will be incredible wherever you go. Just make sure to check your chosen company has English-speaking guides available. With more than 600 miles of coastline, water sports are also popular around the island, but as scuba divers, we were most excited by the island’s world-class dive sites. Around Calvi, on the west coast, you can spot octopus, moray eels and damselfish, and certified divers even dive down to admire red coral colonies, found only in the Mediterranean. Diving to explore the wreckage of a Second World War-era B-17 bomber, bullet holes still visible on the fuselage, was one of my most memorable dives of all time (www. plongee-calvi-corse.com). Even more incredible is the story of its crash-landing, just off the shore of Calvi. Miraculously, everyone on board survived.

West coast and the Balagne

Although it’s small in size, Corsica takes time to get around, and if you only have a week or two, it’s best to select one or two destinations to get the most out of your trip.

I suggest starting on the west coast, where the star attraction is a boat ride to see the island’s sole UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Gulf of Porto, which encompasses the Calanques de Piana, the Gulf of Girolata and the Scandola Nature Reserve. This extraordinary coastal area, inscribed for its dramatic geology and rich marine biodiversity, can only be viewed from the water. We opted for a half-day cruise (www.lepasspartout.com) which first visited the Calanques de Piana before turning north to sail beneath the dramatic red porphyry cliffs of the Réserve Naturelle de Scandola, and included a stop at the fishing village of Girolata, the island’s last-remaining village without road access.

Most boat tours set out from the picturesque port town of Porto, a great place to spend a night or two. To the north, the sunny Balagne region is home to some of the west coast’s most beautiful beaches, but you can also duck inland to explore the hillside villages or hike through the forest footpaths of the Fango Valley. From Calvi you can drive or cycle (it’s notoriously hilly, so treat yourself to an e-bike) to the villages of Sant’Antonino, Pigna, Lumio and Corbara, home to local artisans and some of the area’s best restaurants.

Further up the coast, don’t miss Île Rousse with its 19th-century lighthouse perched on a rocky promontory; it’s a delightful half-hour walk from town, culminating in panoramic views of the coast..

Bonifacio and the south

Teetering atop formidable alabaster cliffs, Bonifacio is the showstopper of Corsica’s glamorous south coast and within a short drive of some of its most photogenic beaches (Palombaggia and Rondinara are perennial crowd-pleasers). Start with a walking tour of the cliff-top Haute Ville, where you can trace the ruins of the old medieval citadel and lose yourself in a warren of narrow, cobbled lanes, packed with shops and restaurants. The dizzying 187-step descent of the Escalier du Roi d’Aragon, a manmade staircase cut right into the rock face, is worth the effort (the sweaty climb back up will leave even the fittest travellers panting), bringing you down to a sea level promenade that affords unbeatable views. Afterwards, reward yourself with an ice cream from nearby Rocca Serra, a local institution that serves distinctly Corsican flavours, such as chestnut or clementine sorbet.

If your step count still hasn’t hit its limit, you can also follow the Sentier Campu Rumanilu trail along the clifftops, although the best views of the staggering white cliffs can be seen from the water. Set sail on a boat cruise (bonifacio-excursions.com) around the harbour or head out to the offshore Îles Lavezzi, where you can lounge on fine-sand beaches and snorkel in the marbled turquoise waters.

CORSICA ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

EasyJet and British Airways fly seasonally from London to Bastia and Figari, and there are also year-round flights from all major cities on the French mainland. Alternatively, you can take the ferry from Nice, Toulon or Marseille to any of Corsica’s five ports.

Corsica Ferries

www.corsica-ferries.fr

Corsica Linea

www.corsicalinea.com

CONTACTS

www.visit-corsica.com/en

www.ouestcorsica.com/en

BOOKS

The Rough Guide to Corsica is available to buy now, priced £14.99.

shop.roughguides.com/book/the-rough-guide-to-corsica/9781835292716

From France Today Magazine

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

link