French Riviera Travel: A Guide to the South of France

Beach clubs, sparkling turquoise waters and lavender fields are only some of what makes the French Riviera so special. I spent five days in the beginning of September swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, getting kissed by the European sun and eating gelato under yellow streetlights every night.

After passing by many stunning towns during a six-hour southbound train ride from Paris, my arrival in Nice was immediately met with dinner at Le Plongeoir.

The iconic Le Plongeoir, perched on a rocky outcrop while the Mediterranean Sea curls and crashes beneath it, feels like a wish come true. The truffle pasta with a garnish of truffle shavings that rested on top, slightly melting into the rigatoni, stood out from all the dishes I indulged in while in Nice.

The chatter of families and lovers around me, under enough light to make the deep blue evening sea stand out, created an atmosphere that can only be found in magical places. Naturally, this meal had to be paired with a treat after dinner with a walk to Oui, Jelato in Old Town, Nice. My creamy pistachio gelato that dripped onto the crunchy cone slowly melted as I walked on the streets under the European yellow hue reflected off the streetlights.

Walking through the narrow alleys of Old Town in the evening made me feel like I had been wrapped in warmth that was not heat, but history. It was an invitation to linger, slow down and romanticize the cobblestones that glistened like honey. The yellow hue was made for lovers to dance under.

Finally, settling in at Hôtel West End, our home base, I prepped to spend the following four days exploring the Côte d’Azur.

After a good night’s sleep, my first full day in Nice was spent at Bocca Mar Beach Club, swimming in the rocky sea made comfortable with water shoes that, even though I had doubts about using, proved immensely convenient. I spent my day tanning, swimming and eating Bocca Mar’s delectable Caesar salad with crispy chicken, feta salad paired with watermelon, with a Coke Zero to drink, of course. From cloudy in the morning to immediately sunny in the afternoon, the weather in the French Riviera at the end of summer in September is nothing short of perfect.

After a stop at the pharmacy for new skin products, I returned to my hotel to prepare for an evening in Monte Carlo, Monaco. Prior to arriving in Monaco, I stopped by Èze, a small village fifteen minutes away from Nice and on the way to Monaco.

This village felt like stepping into the town where “Romeo and Juliet” was made, becoming more romantic as I walked uphill on the cobblestones, amid the plants, yellow buildings and clothes hanging outside apartment balconies to dry. While so close, Monaco was the exact opposite of Èze.

In a place where chance and destiny dance together with the shuffle of cards, the sound of luxurious cars going down the Circuit de Monaco, and the Prince’s Palace, there is more than just casinos and glamour. The glimmering sea by the Mediterranean coast, history of the Prince’s Palace with its medieval roots, and mountains around the city that feel like they are protecting it, are all part of Monte Carlo’s unique charm. My evening in the small country was spent at Amazónico, eating fresh sashimi and seafood paella.

My next day trip in the Côte d’Azur was spent in Saint-Tropez, mostly at the luxurious La Réserve Beach Club, swimming in the clear blue waters. Isolated and serene, this beach club felt like I stepped into an image after searching “paradise.” Stepping into the water, it felt like being given the most delicate hug by refreshing water and sea salt while standing on the soft sand beneath my feet. Sunny but not scorching hot, I noticed that I never felt the initial chill of getting out of the water as I had before in France.

My relaxing day in Saint-Tropez ended with shopping, walking by the yachts on the port, and having dinner at Senequier, enjoying steak and fries, salmon tartare and a burrata salad in front of the port, decorated with a pink sky in the back as the sun was setting. There was something about the South of France that made me crave fish and sushi, and in a few words, I was not disappointed. My dessert consisted of the iconic La Tropézienne and a cappuccino. This pastry, created in Saint-Tropez, is made with a soft brioche bun cut in half and, like a sandwich, filled with a creamy mixture of buttercream and pastry cream. The top is dusted with pearl sugar for a change of texture and a little crunch in each bite, followed by the soft brioche and filling. I have never thought the same about dessert since tasting this sandwich.

Moreover, part of what made this dinner so special was people-watching those around me and those walking by outside of the restaurant, wondering if they were thinking the same as I was. Not knowing what to put their eyes on, in awe of the Côte d’Azur skies, or wondering if the people on the yachts are tourists or locals. At the same time, I also thought about how many people were around me, all living their own different lives, going to different places and working different occupations. The French Riviera constantly put me in awe.

After a rideshare back to Hôtel West End in Nice, reflecting on the trip I had so far while looking out the window, it was time to sleep and wake up on my last day in France.

It was an immensely bittersweet day exploring Cannes because all I wanted to do was stay. I realized that Cannes was my favorite city I had visited in the Côte d’Azur, and I became even more emotional over the end of my trip. In a way, this town reminded me of a beachy Paris. Walking in Old Town Cannes, hearing people conversing on their apartment balconies hanging over gelato shops or restaurants became a treasured memory.

The colorful apartment buildings, from pink and yellow to light blue, gave the city such a special personality. As I walked, I saw older couples sitting together, laughing, or drinking coffee on balconies that overlooked such a unique part of Cannes – it was at this moment that I understood how beautiful aging is.

I spent the rest of my last day in the French Riviera drinking an iced matcha latte at Saddle, swimming in the deepest blue sea at Carlton Beach Club, having lunch at their restaurant, shopping, and watching the sun go down behind the sea. Of all the sunsets I have seen in my life, I will never forget the one I saw in Cannes. Such a delicate pink, perfectly fused with the clouds above the sea. Most sunsets feel loud, but this one was a mere whisper.

My night ended at La Môme, eating tuna tartare, pasta and the biggest cookie I have ever seen. I was most excited at 11 p.m., when the live performance invited the audience to join in, twirling their napkins and holding candles high in the air. People were clapping, dancing and singing, and I felt like I was in a movie. My trip definitely ended on such a high note.

The French Riviera will forever feel like a dream stitched from sea foam, sunlight, and a song. Each city is so different from one another, yet together they form a single heartbeat along the coast. As I left, I carried not just memories, but the glow of a place that teaches you how to live beautifully, moment by fleeting moment.