ourists Are Hated in Large Parts of Europe. But Serbia Will Definitely Welcome You

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ourists Are Hated in Large Parts of Europe. But Serbia Will Definitely Welcome You

Where do you travel when tourists aren’t welcome?

Iwas sitting with a group at a table of strangers, attempting to learn the nuances of a new culture. As the overflowing platters of meat, cheese, and a few unknown Serbian dishes arrived at our table, I hesitated to take too much. Because I was raised in a Polish-Irish household, I’m used to extra-large portions and grandmothers who never accepted when you’re full enough, but this is my first time meeting the group, so I politely tried a little piece of everything and fought the urge to grab it all.

Our charismatic tour guide, Bojana, circled the table. As soon as she spotted a space on my plate, she rushed over with suggestions. She handed me the plate of rostilj (Serbian barbecue) and the pecene paprike punjene sirom (peppers stuffed with cheese). “Here! Take some more,” she said.

Just when I thought my stomach couldn’t handle another bite, more dishes were brought over. The table erupted with laughter. As a relatively underexplored country for most travelers, Bojana explained that hospitality in Serbia is held to a very high standard. Because there has been an inability to celebrate and socialize due to the country’s turbulent history, Serbians now pride themselves on welcoming tourists and showing off their way of life through food, history, and culture. I was relieved to hear it. Across Europe, anti-tourism is on the rise—with backlashes in Spain, Italy, Portugal, Greece, the Netherlands, and others–it’s difficult to know how you’ll be accepted as a tourist while on the continent.  

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But Bonjana explains how Serbians’ welcoming nature and kindness often stem from Slava, a Serbian Orthodox celebration that honors a family’s patron saint. Designated as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the Slava feast is held for friends, family, and neighbors. The celebration starts with a toast to family and guests for good health. The Serbian tradition brings people together and plays an important role in establishing and maintaining social relationships.

The Local Network

Since it was day one and most of us had been in Belgrade for fewer than 10 hours, Bojana led us through the city center to get the lay of the land and see the famous sites. Our first stop wasn’t a museum, church, or historic building. Instead, she introduced us to an old lady on the side of the road who makes her living sewing lace products.

“She hand-sews these herself. It’s the best quality. Take a look!” boasted Bojana.

I couldn’t help but smile. It didn’t feel like a sales pitch or a ploy to make us spend, as I’ve become accustomed to in other countries abroad. It felt genuine. We were taken to a few other local stops around Belgrade: a store with a collection of quirky clocks, another that sold old maps. As we strolled around, Bojana seemed to know everyone in town and made an effort to introduce us to them all. I wasn’t sure what I thought Serbia would be, but it certainly wasn’t this. I was touched by how the Serbians I’d met seemed to look out for each other.

I hadn’t felt this way in a long time traveling, but it’s a sense of belonging and welcome.

Knez Mihailova Street, the main shopping mile of Belgrade.Kirillm/iStock

Singing a Different Tune

On our first evening in Belgrade, there was so much life outside the hotel. The narrow main street where we were staying was lined with busking musicians, colorful buildings, and pop-up storefronts selling handmade crafts.

The street suddenly veered off into a more residential area, with a charming town square, light-strewn restaurants, and cobblestone streets. We were in the Skadarlija Neighborhood and had already found numerous kafanas, or taverns, playing Serbian folk music. When the Ottomans conquered Belgrade in the 1500s, they brought with them hundreds of these traditional taverns or coffee shops. Nowadays, most of the kafanas have been transformed into bustling restaurants scattered throughout the city and serve as a social meeting place to gather, sing, and gossip with friends.

I walked through the wooden doors of Restaurant Dva Jelena to a room filled with chatter and high-spirited music played by a group of men adorned in traditional Serbian dress. Maybe our curious expressions or the fact that we were not singing jovially like everyone else in the restaurant gave us away. The singers drew nearer and serenaded us with Serbian folk songs we didn’t know the words to, but we clapped anyway and tried our best. I wasn’t sure I wanted to draw too much attention to us as tourists, but when I looked around the room, there was no laughter or judgment that we were the table of “typical Americans.” While it was difficult to communicate with the language barrier, the locals encouraged us to participate in singing with gestures and expressive faces. We became part of the community, surrounded by people who were willing to engage us with their culture–and it’s refreshing.

A Royal Encounter

On day five, our driver crossed the wrought-iron gates of Dedinje Royal Compound, the royal complex, just outside of Belgrade. Having seen my fair share of royal accommodations across Europe, I’d come to view them from afar as most people do: behind the tall gates and expansive landscapes that keep onlookers at a distance.

“Shall I ring the doorbell?” laughed Bojana.

The Royal Palace, also known as The White Palace, where the Serbian Royal family Karađorđević curently livesPavle Marjanovic | Dreamstime.com

For a moment, we thought she was joking as usual–until she pranced up the stairs. Though the grounds were pristine, the palace was even more impressive on the inside. As we meandered through each room, we were told stories about the royal inhabitants and shown the private theater room where guests would gather to watch movies and football games. We were even shown the favorite chair of the former President of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, Josip Broz Tito.

After exploring several rooms and the beautifully adorned chapel, we were told that Crown Princess Katherine was ready to see us. Was this a joke? I knew she was extremely active in the humanitarian sector, but we hadn’t expected to meet her. Our guides scurried along the main passageway to the main room as we followed, trying to look as presentable as possible while red in the face with anticipation.

Where else would I be presented with the opportunity to meet royalty?

In line formation, we greeted Crown Princess Katherine as she entered the room. She spoke of her charity work through the HRH Foundation, giving back to communities, and the welcoming nature of Serbian people. I couldn’t help but feel a little emotional. Despite difficult times in the country, she continues her humanitarian efforts throughout former Yugoslavia. Her warm presence supported my theory–Serbia really is a place brimming with hospitality.

A Sprawling Amity

Most people don’t realize the size and ease of traveling across Serbia. Bordered by Romania, Hungary, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Bulgaria, Serbia serves as the perfect base for venturing through Central Europe and only takes around six to eight hours to drive across the country. On our last full day, Bojana spoiled us with some sweet treats for the drive to a small city in the province of Vojvodina.

Scenes from the Carpathian Mountains across the Danube Riverfalco from Pixabay

Ljubisha, our smiling local guide, greeted us. “Welcome to Vrsac!”

I could have listened to him all day. He explained the history and draw of the region with a smile and was obviously extremely proud to share his knowledge with visitors. We spent a few hours exploring the city and hiking the castle to see the distant flats of the UNESCO World Heritage site, the Deliblato Sands Special Nature Reserve. When we got back in the van, Ljubisha told us he’d saved the best for last. I was too busy admiring the winding roads and rolling hills to pay attention to where he was taking us.

Near the Romanian border, the landscapes changed to masses of green. There were stone walls and the outline of the mountains in the distance. The van jolted as we approached the entrance to Vinarija Rnjak Winery. I imagined what life would be like here in such a peaceful and still place.

“We’re happy to welcome you to our home, said winery owners, Ljiljana and Miroslav Rnjak, who greeted us with open arms and led us down to the 160-year-old cellar. Unlike at the formal wine tastings I’d become accustomed to, the couple pulled up chairs around a long wooden table and joined us for a few glasses and charcuterie.

Hours passed at the winery in a blink. As we laughed and chatted with Bojana, Ljubisha, and the Rnjak family, I felt more at home than I had ever before in a new culture. While much of Europe struggles with overtourism management, Serbia continues to welcome travelers, spotlighting the culture, history, and hospitality of the region. For me, the friendliness of the Serbian people is more than enough reason to visit.










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