Slow Travel Through This Beautiful Thai Island

Sure, you can come to Phang Nga Bay — an animated movie-like islandscape connecting southern Thailand’s mainland and Phuket Island — to take that one vacation photo you’ve seen everywhere on the internet. There are plenty of scenes to choose from, from the hilltop perspective of Samet Nangshe Viewpoint to the golden-ratio-approved background from Hin Rom Pier. And how could we forget the travel brochure-favourite snapshot where people appear to be leaning or flicking off Ko Tapu or James Bond Island? 

But if there’s one thing I’ve learned from backpacking through the region more times than I would like to admit, it’s that Phang Nga Bay is a place to soak in intentionally. Whether you’re a mountain meanderer or beach bum, there’s plenty to experience. What matters here is that you’re open to taking it slow and ready to dive in literally and figuratively whenever the opportunity arises. Here’s my guide to a weekend there.  

Also, read our guide to some of the quieter islands in Thailand that are less crowded and as beautiful.

Day 1: Prawn-spiration and Phang Nga National Park

The “you only need one day to explore Phang Nga Bay” is a myth, and I realised it the moment Jirapat Horesaengchai, a Phuket native and seasoned long-tail boat rider, handed me a scrunched-up paper with everything I would regret if I left here after a touristy jog. A fellow photophile, Horesaengchai and I bonded over our shared passion, discussing drone photography and permits near the Ao Phang Nga National Park entrance.

We soon parted, and I began my day by strolling along Ao Po Pier. I boarded a double-decker boat there, promising stunning views of the limestone cliffs and karst formations that characterise the region. Our first stop was Panak Island. This geological marvel is a mecca of limestone, a sedimentary rock formed from marine organism deposits. The island features limestone cliffs, underwater caves like the Bat Cave, and karst formations within Ao Phang Nga National Park. 

James Bond Island, featured in the 1974 film The Man With the Golden Gun, with towering formations like Khao Phing Kan and the 20-metre islet Ko Tapu, was the next stop which could be spotted from a mile away in Phang Nga Bay. Before heading to the last stop which is Nakae Island, I held onto a metal table and dug into a Thai khanom krok (coconut rice pancake) and a refreshing cha yen (Thai iced tea) from a tap as I raw-dogged the last hour watching the waves. An unexpected pit stop was the secluded lagoons of Talu Island, where I, a novice canoer, learned 101 ways to tip over before heading to Naka Island, the end destination, to plop down on the beach and contemplate ever getting back up. While dinner at the Naka Palm Restaurant can motivate anybody, specifically their chilly prawns, I decided to mukbang on two full plates of good old chicken-fried rice.

Day 2: Hiking to Ban Samet Nangshe and Hin Rom Pier

As beautiful as the islands are up close, they can’t hold a torch to the majesty of the nearby 800-metre-high Samet Nangshe Viewpoint in Ban Samet Nangshe, Khlong Khian subdistrict, where I walked around in the morning. The area — privately owned and converted into a tourist destination in 2016 — has two main viewpoints: a 300-metre walk from Samet Nangshe Boutique accommodation and campsite and a THB 60 (HKD 13.65) shuttle service. The second spot, located 500 metres further at Samet Nangshe Resort, is a hidden camping spot with parking and a THB 90 (HKD 20.45) shuttle service.

Also read | Farm-To-Table Restaurants In Thailand You Should Check Out

The Bay View Cafe’s clientele is as diverse as the menu. After I-won’t-name-how-many servings of shrimp salad, fish porridge, fried yellow noodles and three coconut waters later, I headed to the Hin Rom Pier to hitch a boat ride to Lot Cave. But before you set out for a sail in the open seas, pace around the pier to capture the sunset at probably the best vantage point in the area. Ducking inside a natural passage to discover the grimy insides of a cave is one loud review I heard from a passenger at the dock. Still, if you look closer, the stalagmite and stalactite formations have a legend. 

Day 3: 

“A lot of people see the bay from the front as beautiful, but their English-guided itineraries don’t tell them about Koh Panyi,” sighed Horesaengchai, whom I met up with on the third day for a photo walk. Koh Panyi is a small island with about 200 houses, primarily inhabited by Thai Muslims who make a living through fishing and selling souvenirs and food to tourists. The settlement was founded by three Javanese families from Indonesia in the late 18th century, who named the island “Pulao Panji” or “our flag”. Today, the island has around 1,400 residents living in stilt houses, with a two-storey marble mosque and cemetery in the communal area. 

Also read | These Are Some Of The Least Vegetarian-Friendly Countries In Asia. Do You Agree?

“The island’s economy is driven by fishing, cockle and fish farms, and increasingly by tourism, with locals also operating restaurants and often making a lot of money selling dried seafood,” said a local who offered us a tin can to try the taste of this money-making ingredient. He then recommended that I dine at the Panyi Seafood Restaurant, where I was welcomed into a dining room with a sturdy wooden facade and the fading scent of Thai curry. A seafood platter and lobster pad thai. I realised the term ‘fresh catch’ is more of a fact than an advertising tactic. 

The best time to visit

Tourism in and around the Phang Nga Bay area is majorly bound by the different seasons. While some heliophiles like me would be keen to head down to the bay during the scorching heat of April and May, mid-October to March is when Thailand’s mainland and Phuket Island welcome the most visitors worldwide. For those who want to escape the annoyance of more than ten people in a square inch of the sand-loaded, flop-worthy beaches, seeking out the shoulder season (June and November) can be a peaceful solution. 

Also read | The Best Time To Visit Thailand For Great Weather, Low Prices, And Fun Festivals

The Instagram photo location you have in mind is less likely to be packed, and there’s usually a discount or deal available on your preferred accommodation. However, the daytime temperature at the beginning of March can still be very hot, so travellers sensitive to heat should aim for February or late October instead.

How to reach 

You need to know about Phang Nga Bay’s transport network and tickets.

• From Phuket International Airport: The most straightforward way is to take a 20-minute drive to Bang Rong Pier from the airport before booking a longtail boat that’ll take about one hour to reach Ko Yao Noi, or you can opt for a speedboat ride that takes around 30 minutes. A one-way ticket costs THB 550 (HKD 125) for a speedboat and THB 300 (HKD 68.20) for a longtail boat ride. 
• From Phuket: While you can join a guided tour, typically including hotel pick-up and drop-off, I chose the more independent alternative of driving from Phuket Town (about one hour) to Surakul Pier in Phang Nga province. From there, I joined a local tour to explore the area. Looking for the same local experience? Hop on one of the longtail boats at Rassada Pier or Bang Rong Pier in Phuket.
• From Bangkok: The most efficient option for travelling from Bangkok is to fly to Phuket International Airport (approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes by plane). Alternatively, you can take a bus or flight from Bangkok to Phang Nga Town and book a tour. Bus rides take about 10-12 hours.

Also, read our guide to the best time to visit Phuket.

Things to know before visiting Phang Nga Bay

• Plan your visit to popular spots like James Bond Island early in the morning or late in the afternoon to experience them without the crowds. 
• Rent a private boat (oversharing with other visitors) to explore at your own pace and visit less crowded areas.
• Bring waterproof kayaking and island hopping gear, and pack waterproof bags or cases to protect your electronics and valuables.
• When visiting Koh Panyee and other local villages, be mindful of cultural norms and dress modestly to show respect.
• Avoid the rainy season and visit Phang Nga Bay between November and April. The weather is generally dry, and the seas are calm.
• A pro hack is to always keep some water and snacks with you. While food is available on some islands, carrying snacks can be helpful for longer boat trips or exploring remote areas.
• Pack seasickness medicine in a waterproof bag for easy access during boat trips.

Shop the best travel experiences here

(Feature image credit: Sneha Chakraborty)

Related: Picking Your Perfect Shoreline: Thailand Vs Bali Unpacked

Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.

We may earn an affiliate commission when you shop through links on our site.

Written By